12/2/2023 0 Comments Raws take a peekA good few feta sours and bottles of wine later, the final bill will likely resemble an airfare in itself (and not of the Ryanair kind…)-but for such an exceptional meal and Greek holiday vibes right on your doorstep, we’d say it’s worth every penny. The bottarga on toast and eel “soutzoukaki” starters are an absolute must, as is the brilliant nori millefeuille-and if you’re there on a weekend, don’t miss the special octopus roll. While the chefs will happily create your personally tailored menu based on the fish you choose (make sure you take a peek in the dry ager too), it’s well worth also venturing into the à la carte. Think lightly fried tails dipped in aioli, charred collars served with olive oil and lemon, and the more “noble” parts thinly-sliced and served raw, or lightly barbecued and placed atop rich orzo. The concept is “fin-to-gill” cooking, which besides being zero-waste, also means the creativity is ranked up a few notches. No matter: the fish is just as fresh, sourced from both the Aegean and British coasts, displayed at the entrance for guests to select and chefs to transform into a variety of delectable modern Greek dishes. The vibes and flavours are of a chic, beach-front taverna-but instead of a sea breeze it’s air-con, and the door leads to the streets of Marylebone rather than the Mediterranean sea. V.F.’s top tip for the latter is to grab a few friends and book a table at Kima, the new, 28-seat Greek restaurant from the team behind OPSO, that serves some of the best seafood in town. ![]() The tubes are sweltering, the rooftop pools rammed and the streets overflowing with day drinkers… The sole solution at this point is to either leave the country, or treat yourself to something so fabulous it makes you glad you didn’t. Being stuck in the city while everyone else seems to be sunning themselves somewhere fabulous is bad enough, but add a week-long heatwave and London life becomes practically unbearable.
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